Days 22-24 August 14-16

423 miles

The first night on the boat, this guy came around to have dinner with me.
The second night, he brought a few friends.

The ride from Mojave to Marina Del Rey was nothing to write about, 100 miles of heat and crowded LA freeways. I was glad to get anchored and cleaned up. The sailboat was very comfortable. Lee and Lisa joined me on Wednesday for conversation and dinner. I was not looking forward to the ride back to Arizona for several reasons: going east at sunrise, LA rush hour traffic, and Phoenix rush hour traffic. So, I left LA at 2 am. I sliced through LA in an hour and a half. Coincidentally, I arrived at the Arizona border just as the sun was coming on strong, so I stopped at the Flyin J for gas and coffee. When I returned to the road, the sun was well up into my sunshield range. I arrived in western Phoenix about 8:45. The bulk of the traffic had passed and I made it through Phoenix in an hour.

For those who like statistics: 4665 land miles, 2200 sea miles, a total of 122 gallons of gas, cheapest price in Arizona at $2.65, the most expensive in Whitehorse in the Yukon at $4.23. Strangely, LA wasn’t too bad at under $3.00.

In a couple of blogs, I alluded to some observations I had made while traveling. You may enjoy them.

The “tendencies” I have observed while motorcycling

1. The air around semi tractor-trailers tends to be unstable.

2. Slow drivers in the no passing areas tend to speed up in the passing areas.

3. Gas prices tend to be cheaper just before you fill up, or right after.

4. Posting slower speeds for trucks on two lane highways tends to back up traffic behind trucks.

5. Female passengers on road trips tend to ride with their bare feet on the dash; colorful at times.

6. The further north you go the weather tends to get cooler. Corollary: The further south you go….warmer. The higher you get…cooler, the lower you get….

7. Tourists tend to travel without manners.

8. When riding five hundred miles in a day, the number of different riding positions tends to be unlimited.

9. Many tourists tend to drive like they are in a hurry to reach the next destination.

10. The hotter and hotter it gets, minutes tend to get longer and longer.

11. Slow vehicles tend not to use the turnouts provided.

12. Things left unlashed, unsnapped, untied, unbuckled, unlatched, or otherwise unattended, tend to become problematic.

13. Failing to downshift completely into first gear tends to spoil a smooth take off.

14. The allegedly random, engorged insect tends to land smack in the middle of the face or wind shield, which has a tendency to make a rider cross-eyed.
    
    
15. And, the most important;
    After 24 days on the road, it tends to feel real good to get home.
    

Day 21, August 13

OK, so I lied. There is wireless Internet on a sailboat in a slip at Marina del Rey.

434 miles including the trip into Yosemite and back out.

I thought this would be another no photo day because of the smoke, and it smelled bad, too.
But, a couple of hours into the ride, the smoke cleared and the Sierras appeared.
I knew it was going to happen, but I didn't like it just the same.

I made the curve and this view blew me away.

The drive up to Tioga Pass, the east entrance to Yosemite, is spectacular, if you don't mind driving with no guard rails.

Rachel, guess who I thought of when I entered Yosemite National Park?

A guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do sometimes.

The sixty mile detour off the direct route to include Yosemite
was well worth the time and miles.

The day began in smoke (reference the photo above.) I was concerned that this would be another no photo day. However, crossing into California, the smoke cleared and the Sierras appeared in all their glory. I have decided it is too much trouble to have a favorite mountain range, so all are my favorites. They are as different as each one of your children. Each one unique and beautiful. I turned off US 395 onto State Hwy 120 just after Mono Lake (Whew!) and went into Yosemite for a brief glimpse (what other kind is there?) I was not disappointed. Unique and beautiful, like the man said. The ground cover is much different than other mountain ranges I’ve seen. There is more rock, fewer trees, but still the majesty. If I were paid more, I would work harder at better descriptions.
At Yosemite, I was at around 10,000 feet (OK, for the purists, 9945,) and it was a fresh 73 degrees. Within a half hour after rejoining 395 going south, the temperature rose to triple digits and stayed there for five hours, topping out at 107. This separated the real bikers from the wannabees. I made it all the way to Mojave, CA, so I guess that makes me mentally questionable. I stopped twice to saturate my Sahara Vest and take on water. I won’t kid anyone, it was hotter than he.., but the cooling gear does help.
The story today was Yosemite. It was more than I imagined.

Day 20, August 12

This will be the last post until I arrive back in Apache Junction. I won't have Internet connectivity for the rest of the trip. Come back after August 17th for a list of "The tendencies I have observed while riding." And, thanks for your emails and comments. Keep 'em coming.

101 mile circle of the mountains around Reno.
The town of Virginia City was built right on the tailings from the mines.

A variation on the Dollar Stores. Actually I think the word "Silver" is missing.

Virginia City is pretty much cars, people, and vendors.

I scheduled an early arrival in Reno so I would have time to look around in the area. Virginia City was interesting, but I am more interested in the mining history than the tourism offerings, so I wandered around a bit and left. VC was a very lively town in 1875. There were four daily newspapers (Mark Twain wrote for one,) 300 businesses, and a population of 25,000. It was the wealthiest town in Nevada and perhaps, the world.
After a couple of photos, I moved on to the capital city of Nevada, Carson City, for a cup of coffee and little black jack action at the 7-11.
My timing to see Lake Tahoe was not good. It was Sunday, dog days of August, highs in the 90s, and the final day of “Hot August Nights.” The roads, beaches, scenic pullovers, and parks were overflowing. The Lake was beautiful, but not photogenic. There was a haze over the lake. The green and blue colors in the coves were dazzling. The roads around the Lake and on the way back to Reno were worth the trip. There were at least two 360 curves, a half dozen 270s and many hairpins. The elevation of the Lake is 4580 and the top of White Rose summit between the Lake and Reno is 8900 feet, so there were enough scenic opportunities to pose a riding risk.
After paying the highest prices for gas in California, $3.65 at the Old Station, it is a relief to pay $2.69 here in Nevada. I will probably fill twice more in California before returning to Arizona prices, which were low when I left.

Day 18-19, August 10-11

This stretch of Interstate I would not recommend, nasty. 370 milesThis was beautiful, especially the part from Mt. Shasta to Susanville. 385 miles
The Cauthorn Family: First Row: Georgeanne, Aidan, Benedict, Elizabeth. Second Row: Vincent, Amelia, Jessica, Luke, Thomas. Father, Matt, had to go to work.

No pictures again as I have spent two days on the Interstate. There was good news and bad news. The bad news was I-5 from Bellingham through Portland. I experienced about an hour delay due to an accident, but the northbound lane was backed up for twenty miles due to construction and who knows what. I had filled up in Ketchikan at Safeway for $3.35 so I couldn’t stop in Bellingham just up from the boat dock and fill for $2.73 (see the “tendencies” in a later blog.)
I spent a fast two hours with my niece and her family in Eugene Saturday morning. They are in the process of buying a new place with acreage so everyone is pretty excited.
Saturday afternoon, I met a high school friend and his wife for lunch in Ashland. We hung out together for a year in high school and have touched lives sporadically for the past fifty years.
The good news (see first paragraph) was I-5 from Ashland to Mt. Shasta, California and beyond. The scenery in southern Oregon is as good as it gets, and snow covered Shasta was on the horizon for miles. I turned east at Shasta and rode through the awesome redwoods for a hundred miles to Susanville where I spent the night. I was lucky to get a room. “Hot August Nights,” an annual car show in Reno, had people overflowing 85 miles up here to Susanville. It took me three stops to find a motel and then, I got the last room. Too close for comfort.
While the trip from I-5 to Susanville was scenic, it was fraught with fuel anxiety. In the 130 mile stretch there is only one gas station at, aptly enough, Old Station. I wouldn’t have known about it unless I had stopped at a campground and inquired. Not the last of California gas prices $3.65. All in all a happy couple of days. Today, Sunday I head to Reno, Virginia City, Carson City, and Tahoe.

Day 14-17, August 7-10

This new ship, The Columbia is a bit upscale. I ate here twice. The food was average, but the ambience was unique.
Settlers Cove Park at the beach was unusual.

There is too much to tell about totems here. Little know fact...they face the ocean.


Poor photo of a clan lodge. 20 to 50 people lived here (in those times.)

It is as hard to photograph a salmon as it is a whale. In the five minutes I watched them, they caught about six fish.

It's over, it's over, it's oohver. Thanks Roy.

The rain finally caught up with me. Check out time at the B&B was 11 and my ferry loading time was not until 2:45 so what time did it start raining?...11 o’clock. I donned the old Frogg Toggs and proceeded to go for a walkabout. Strangely, I found myself enjoying walking around this little town of Skagway in mid-fifties temperatures in a steady drizzle with occasional wind gusts. It reminded me of similar days in England. I visited the local museum and read of the colorful history of Skagway. In 1899 and 1900, the population swelled to around 10,000 (I am sure their census gathering was somewhat imprecise.) Again, during the Second World War the population resurged to around 10,000. It was as low as 500 and now, stands at about 2,000. I remarked to the volunteer at the visitor center that this was one of the youngest towns I had visited, thinking in terms of the gold rush of 1898. He quickly corrected me saying the Russians settled the area in the mid-seventeen fifties. So, I stand corrected.
The ferry was two hours late, so we have been behind schedule for twenty four hours. We are making up time as we go, and expect to dock on time in Bellingham at 8 am on Friday. The first day out is foggy as it was on the way up.
Tuesday passed pretty quietly. I met some fellow bikers in Skagway and we have been chatting along the way.
Wednesday, was a treat. For some unexplained reason (possibly waiting for suitable tide conditions) we pulled into Ketchikan at 11:30 and were not scheduled to leave until 5 pm. We had checked with the Bosun and he said we could take our motorcycles off and reboard, so we did. I rode to Settler’s Cove Park at the north end of the paved road. It was a delightful campground and picnic area at the edge of the water. On the way back to town, I stopped at Totem Bight Park to see a replica of a clan lodge and many totem poles. It was quite well done and annotated. Continuing south I visited Herring Cove in hopes of catching bears fishing. Unfortunately, it was too early in the day for bears, but I did watch four fisherman catching salmon and caught a few pictures. I finished my tour of the town with a cup of coffee and strolling about talking to the locals.
Thursday is another quiet day as we have no ports. We sail from Ketchikan to Bellingham (about 38 hours) non stop. We are scheduled to arrive a little early, around 7 am when I get back on the road for the second half of the land portion of the trip. The sea leg was 2200 miles roundtrip and very relaxing. I can see that this kind of travel would not be for everyone. While there are movies and some talks by the ship’s “Interpreter,” most entertainment is left up to the traveler. I caught glimpses of whales, but never more than a blow spout, a fluke going to a dive, or a millesecond of whale back. Never enough to photograph. There is only one word to describe the past ten days, supercalifragilisticexpialidocious.

Day 13, August 6

It was cold and windy, but still beautiful.

I missed the Welcome to Canada sign on the northbound letg.
My B&B, The Whitehouse.
George W. was tied up in a press conference, but Laura served coffee.

The White Pass and Yukon Route,

built to support the gold rush at Dawson City.

Completely updated equipment.

This is the White Pass Trail established in 1898. Not to be confused with the Chilkoot Trail, this would accommodate pack animals and was less demanding. It was a toll trail and it is reported that operators collected $1,000 a day. Better than working a dinky claim, eh?

This was the trestle of the original infrastructure.

Lucky for us, they replaced it with this one.

I made the return trip from Whitehorse to Skagway on a cold and windy day. I brought my best winter gloves for just such a day and left them at the B&B in Skagway. So much for good planning. The day turned out to be decent. I took another ride on another narrow gauge railroad from sea level to almost 3000 feet, the summit of White Pass. The scenery, procedures, and equipment were quite different from the railroad in New Mexico.
The B&B dates back to 1902 and much of the original flavor has been preserved. However, it has been completely updated and is ultra modern and comfortable. I don’t stay in B&Bs often so I don’t know how $135 compares, but with Motel 6, it is a little spendy.
Today, there is no sun. The clouds are so low they block the mountains on either side of the valley here in Skagway. I am just hoping the rain holds off until I get on the ferry this afternoon. The ferry ride should be interesting as I met four fellow cyclists on the train who have been touring Alaska for the past sixteen days. They will ride back to Bellingham on The Columbia with me.

Day 12, August 4

There were some amazing sights on the ride to Whitehorse. This is Emerald Lake and the photo doesn't do it justice.

My hotel is behind the street clock with the red facia and row of lights. Notice the time of night.

What do salmon do when man builds a dam in the way of his reproduction instincts?

They use the lock system designed to lift them over the dam.

Hard to believe there were about 250 of these on the Yukon during the Gold Rush years. It took 36 hours to reach Dawson City, with the current, and four to five days to return, against the current. A cord of wood per hour to supply the steam.

I filled up in Skagway this morning before leaving for Whitehorse; $3.64. The temp was mid-fifties. So far I have been lucky to miss the rain. Looking at the clouds ahead, I thought my luck had run out. It turns out that the temperature dropped into the forties and the clouds dropped down on the highway, but the rain stayed put. Miraculously, the clouds dissipated almost immediately after crossing White Pass (3300 ft.) and the temperature climbed into the sixties.
Whitehorse was/is a gemstone in the crown of the Yukon. I was very impressed. It is clean, well laid out, modern tastefully integrated with rustic, and the people were very friendly. I checked into the hotel (two floor walkup) and headed for the fish ladder. The fish ladder is the world’s longest and its purpose is to move salmon upstream past a dam. I never thought about how salmon would get back to their spawning grounds if someone erected a dam. Apparently, the fish lobby got the attention of the river engineers and they built a series of locks that lift the fish in stages. It is not highly technical, but it is very functional.
My next stop was at the Klondike for a tour of a sternwheeler that supplied the growth and prosperity of Dawson City during the gold rush of 1898 to the early 1900s. The Klondike continued to make the run to Dawson City until 1955, the last paddle wheeler to steam the Yukon River.
After a tour of the visitor’s center and a film about the Yukon, I returned to the hotel for a much needed rest before attending some local entertainment, The Frantic Follies. It was a hoot, with music, comedy, skits, dancing, and all around good fun. They acted out some of the poems of Robert Service the poet laureate of Alaska in his time, circa 1900-1930. They did “The Cremation of Sam McGrew,” and “The Ballad of the Ice Worm Cocktail.” Hilarious.
On my way out of town I stopped at the Beringia Interpretive Center to get a little more understanding of what life was like in the Yukon 30,000 years ago. Fascinating…more at
http://www.beringia.com/01/01maina.html